It is that time of year that I encounter a
number of individuals who either call or come to the office who have questions
regarding their lawn. One of those
questions has to do with timing of fertilizer application. The rule of thumb
that seems to work is that when you have mowed 2-3 times it is time to
fertilize. Due to a cooler or milder
spring and irregular weather we experienced in March/April the growth of most
of our turf grasses has been slowed considerably. Understand, that I mean turf grasses not the
winter ryegrass and rescue grass we see growing like wild. Unfortunately, we can’t do anything for those
now; but, the good news is when the heat does get here they will soon go away.
If you are having to mow, that indicates the turf is actively growing and is
therefore ready for that first application, preferably I would encourage you to
take a soil sample to see exactly what your lawn needs, if not, products with a
3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio would most likely to a good job. Apply at a rate of 1 pound per 1000 square
feet of turf. The weed and feed products
that are so popular are not a good idea since your weed control should have
been applied weeks ago. If you are
having major weed problems give me a call or bring in a sample and we’ll come
up with a plan for your yard.
Another
question that comes up regularly is concerning dead areas in the turf. There can be many causes of dead spots. One question you need to answer is, can these
dead spots be lifted by hand and or rolled up like carpet. If so, your lawn may have been damaged by
white grubs. White grubs are simply the
larval stage of the May or June beetle.
Hundreds of them are emerging in my neighborhood everyday. These root-feeding grubs are creamy-white and
c-shaped with three pairs of legs, and their damage normally occurs during the
summer and early fall. They feed on
grass roots and the damaged areas begin to show up as weakened or dying grass
in irregular shapes. Eventually, if the
population and damage is severe, these areas will die. To locate grubs, dig with a spade or shovel
to a depth of at least 4 inches. Finding
3-5 grubs per square spot suggests an insecticide treatment is needed. Apply control in June or July and use a product
that contains imidacloprid, halofenozide, trichlorfon or carbaryl. Be sure to read and follow label
directions. For those interested in
non-chemical control, beneficial nematodes can be purchased in garden centers
or through garden supply catalogs. Research
shows that under good conditions, commercially-available nematodes can reduce
white grub populations by up to 50 per cent.
There are several good products available locally. If you would like a list of grub control
products call or come by the Extension office or visit the Aggie-Turf website
at http://aggie-turf.tamu.edu.
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